Behind the Label with Vernon Banham of Jarrold's – November
This month, let’s dive into the fascinating journey of Malbec—a grape that evolved from a secondary Bordeaux variety in France into the flagship wine of Argentina, the largest wine-producing country in the Southern Hemisphere.
Originally, Malbec was a prominent grape in France, especially up until the mid-1800s when a devastating aphid infestation, known as phylloxera, swept across Europe. While many vineyards were replanted, Malbec’s presence dwindled, leaving only about 5,300 hectares (13,097 acres) in France today, predominantly in the region of Cahors. In contrast, Argentina, now synonymous with Malbec, has over 50,000 hectares (123,553 acres) dedicated to this grape, with 25,000 hectares alone in Mendoza, its most iconic wine region.
Argentina’s journey with winemaking began in the mid-1500s when early Spanish settlers planted the first vines in Mendoza. Today, Argentina’s vineyards cover more than 488,000 acres, far surpassing the combined total of 330,000 acres in Australia and New Zealand.
Yet, the Malbec I’m highlighting today hails not from Mendoza but from a more remote region over 500 miles to the north.
2023 Amalaya Malbec, Cafayate, Salta, Argentina (14% ABV)
The province of Salta, located in Argentina’s northwest corner, produces only 2% of the country’s total wine. The town of Cafayate, which has an old wild-west charm, is closer to Bolivia, Paraguay, and Santiago, Chile, than it is to Buenos Aires. Remote and rarely crowded, Salta welcomes its visitors with the warmth of the region’s breathtaking landscapes.
Cafayate’s nearest airport is in Salta City, which lacks direct flights to Buenos Aires, some 900 miles away. Visitors to Salta must either plan for an overnight layover with a transfer or drive, both options taking nearly 20 hours to complete. The vast distances underscore the rugged beauty of Argentina’s landscape.
Both Salta and Mendoza are bounded by the Andes on the west, with the semi-arid provinces of San Juan and La Rioja lying between them. Daytime temperatures here can soar past 40°C (104°F), cooling to about 10°C (50°F) at night, creating extreme growing conditions that influence the wine’s characteristics.
The wine regions span 1,300 miles from Salta in the north to Rio Negro in the south. South of Rio Negro, temperatures drop under the influence of Antarctica, rendering it impossible to cultivate vines across a thousand miles of Argentina’s southern tip.
Unlike the warmer, low-altitude regions like San Juan, Salta benefits from its high-altitude vineyards, which add depth and complexity to its wines. The Amalaya estate sits at 1,828 meters (6,000 feet) above sea level, making it one of the highest vineyards in the world. Here, rocky, well-drained soils and a mere 150 mm of annual rainfall are offset by irrigation from mountain runoff.
Amalaya, which means “hope for a miracle,” produces wines with a distinct elegance. Their Malbec blend, enhanced with Tannat and Petit Verdot, has a balanced complexity unusual for Malbec. When I first tasted it in 2019, I was struck by its similarity to Northern Italian wines, like a refined Barbera or even a Barolo—but at a fraction of the price. This Malbec is refined, with a smooth, rounded elegance, aged in French oak for a lingering, satisfying finish.
Argentinian Cuisine Pairing Suggestion: Vegetarian Potato Tortilla
While Malbec pairs perfectly with Argentina’s famous red meats, this wine’s versatility shines in a variety of dishes. A great option is a vegetarian potato tortilla, a nod to Argentina’s Spanish culinary influence. A traditional meal for long road trips across the vast country, this dish is filling, flavourful, and easy to prepare.
Ingredients:
6 medium eggs
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped
1 serving of cream cheese
1 handful grated Parmesan
6 large potatoes, thinly sliced
1 red or yellow bell pepper, chopped
1 tsp nutmeg
1 pinch of salt
3 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, chopped
Instructions:
Preheat your grill.
Heat olive oil in a large frying pan and fry onions until slightly browned.
Add potatoes, cooking on low heat and lightly crushing them as they soften.
In a bowl, beat the eggs with cream cheese, parsley, nutmeg, salt, pepper, Parmesan, and garlic.
Once the potatoes and onions are softened, drain excess oil, add the egg mixture, and cook until just set.
Transfer the pan to the grill for around 10 minutes or until the top is browned.
Serve with crusty bread to soak up any remaining oil.