Behind the label with Vernon: The story of Appassimento

Allow me to conjure a little warmth in the middle of winter to transport you to a part of Europe where the temperature never drops below 12 degrees, and even in the wettest months the rain is less than 100 milliliters - the region in question is the sun kissed south coast of Italy.

 

Italy has long been at the heart of global wine culture, dating back to Roman times when vineyards stretched across the empire—even as far north as Hadrian’s Wall. While Vino di Carlisle Rosso may not have become a classic, Italy’s influence on winemaking is undeniable. With 28% of the world’s 1,328 wine grape varieties originating in Italy and a winemaking heritage dating back to at least 1141, the country remains a powerhouse of innovation and tradition.

Our journey begins in the heel of Italy’s boot, in the region of Apulia (Puglia), a land of rustic charm, sun-soaked coastlines, and rich cultural heritage. Unlike the tourist-laden cities of Rome and Florence, Apulia’s beauty is quieter but no less captivating. The historic buildings showcase Greek, Roman, Norman, and Moorish influences, while the coastline is dotted with brightly coloured houses overlooking pristine beaches. The region is a well-kept secret, where the echoes of an ancient past blend seamlessly with daily life.

The birth of Appassimento: A southern classic

Despite the economic contrast between Italy’s affluent north and the more humble south, one thing remains universal: the love of good food and wine. When the demand for high-quality wines exceeds affordability, creativity takes over. This is precisely how Appassimento was born—a southern interpretation of the prestigious Amarone della Valpolicella, but at a fraction of the price.

Amarone, produced in Veneto north of Verona, is a coveted Italian wine known for its rich, concentrated flavours. With an average UK retail price ranging from £30 to £130 per bottle, it is a luxury that not all wine lovers can regularly indulge in. Enter Appassimento, Puglia’s answer to Amarone. By using a similar production method but native southern Italian grapes, winemakers have crafted a full-bodied red that offers a like-for-like flavour experience for a quarter of the price.

 

A wine to share

To truly appreciate wine, it must be tasted. But to fully enjoy it, it must be shared. Appassimento is the embodiment of this philosophy—a wine steeped in tradition, yet made accessible to all. Whether you’re savouring it with a carefully prepared meal or simply enjoying a glass with friends, this hidden gem from Puglia is a testament to Italy’s enduring winemaking brilliance. Cheers to discovering new flavours, rich history, and the joy of great wine!

The Appassimento process

The magic of Appassimento lies in its winemaking technique. The grapes used—Negroamaro (60%), Merlot (25%), and Primitivo (15%)—are harvested as late as October to maximise their sugar content. Unlike Amarone, where grape bunches are dried in wooden trays, Appassimento grapes are left hanging on the vine in specially designed drying rooms. Over 15 days, they lose 50% of their moisture, concentrating their flavours into a rich, raisin-like intensity.

After fermentation, the wine is aged in oak barrels for four months, developing complex layers of flavour. The result is a deeply rewarding wine, offering a velvety texture with notes of plum, cocoa, and dried fruit. It is bold enough to stand up to hearty dishes yet remains approachable and easy to enjoy.

 

Pairing Appassimento: A recipe to savour

Appassimento’s versatility makes it a perfect companion for a variety of dishes, from summer Italian fare to robust British winter meals. One particularly memorable experience during my travels in Puglia was enjoying a slow-cooked brisket dish that paired beautifully with the wine’s deep, rich flavours. Below is my take on this comforting classic:

 

Ingredients:

  • 4 tbsp quality olive oil

  • 1.2 kg beef brisket

  • 250 g sofrito (celery, carrot, onion mix)

  • 75 g pancetta

  • 15 g porcini mushrooms, soaked in 150 ml boiling water

  • Bouquet garni

  • 400 g chopped tomatoes

  • 200 ml Appassimento wine

  • Fresh thyme sprigs to finish

 

Method:

  1. Preheat oven to 160°C.

  2. Heat olive oil in a large, heavy-based ovenproof pan. Sauté sofrito and chopped tomatoes until softened.

  3. Stir in pancetta and cook for five minutes until browned.

  4. Push vegetables to the side and brown the brisket on all sides.

  5. Add porcini mushrooms and soaking liquid.

  6. Pour in Appassimento wine and add the bouquet garni.

  7. Cover and slow-cook in the oven for four hours.

  8. Remove beef, shred, and mix with the rich sauce.

  9. Sprinkle with fresh thyme and serve.

Buon Appetito!

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